Cuffs may look like small details, but they play a huge role in how a garment fits, feels, and looks. A well-constructed cuff adds polish and structure, while a poorly attached one can make even a beautiful garment feel sloppy.
In this guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know about cuffs—from choosing the right type, cutting and interfacing them properly, preparing sleeves, and attaching cuffs cleanly and professionally.
1. Understanding Sleeve Cuffs
What Is a Cuff?
A cuff is a fabric band attached to the lower edge of a sleeve. It finishes the raw edge, adds structure, and often provides a way to open or close the sleeve.
Common Types of Cuffs
Basic straight cuff – Most common on shirts and blouses
Button cuff – Opens with a placket and closes with buttons
French cuff (double cuff) – Folded back on itself, worn with cufflinks
Elastic cuff – Common in casual wear and children’s clothing
Continuous cuff – A narrow band without buttons, slipped over the hand
This tutorial focuses on classic straight/button cuffs, but the principles apply to most styles.
2. Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Before you begin, gather the following:
Tools
Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
Measuring tape
Pins or clips
Iron and ironing board
Sewing machine
Seam ripper (just in case)
Materials
Sleeve fabric (already sewn into a tube)
Cuff fabric
Interfacing (fusible or sew-in)
Buttons (if applicable)
Thread matching your fabric
Fabric Tipe:
Knit cuffs stretch and woven cuffs don’t. Knit cuffs are made smaller and tighter because they stretch to fit over the hand and sit snugly on the wrist, so they usually don’t need buttons or interfacing. Woven cuffs don’t stretch, so they must be cut to fit the wrist, use interfacing for stiffness, and usually need buttons or an opening to get the hand through. Simply put, knit cuffs use stretch to fit, and woven cuffs use structure to fit.
3. Measuring and Cutting the Cuff
Step 1: Measure the Sleeve Opening
Measure the circumference of the sleeve opening after the sleeve is sewn and hem allowance removed.
Important: If the sleeve has pleats or gathers, measure it after they are folded into place.
Step 2: Determine Cuff Dimensions
A standard cuff is made of two layers (outer cuff + inner cuff).
Cuff width (height):
Finished cuff height is usually 2–3 inches
Cut height = (finished height × 2) + seam allowances
Example:
Finished cuff = 2.5 inches
Cut height = (2.5 × 2) + 1 inch = 6 inches
Cuff length:
Sleeve circumference
overlap (usually 1–1.5 inches for buttons)
seam allowances
Step 3: Cut the Pieces
You typically need:
2 cuff pieces (outer and inner)
1 interfacing piece (same size as one cuff)
4. Interfacing the Cuff
Interfacing gives the cuff structure and prevents it from collapsing.
How to Apply Fusible Interfacing
1. Place interfacing glue-side down on the wrong side of one cuff piece
2. Use a hot iron (no steam)
3. Press firmly for 10–15 seconds per area
4. Let cool completely before moving
Tip: Always test interfacing on a scrap first to avoid bubbling or stiffness issues.
5. Preparing the Sleeve
Before attaching the cuff, the sleeve must be fully prepared.
Step 1: Sew the Sleeve Seam
The sleeve should already be:
Sewn into a tube
Placket installed (if using buttons)
Pressed neatly
Step 2: Finish the Sleeve Edge
Finish the raw edge using:
Zigzag stitch
Serger
Overcast stitch
This prevents fraying inside the cuff.
Step 3: Adjust Sleeve Fullness
If the sleeve is wider than the cuff:
Create pleats (common in dress shirts)
Or gather evenly
Distribute fullness evenly—avoid bulk at the underarm seam.
6. Preparing the Cuff
Step 1: Sew the Cuff Pieces Together
1. Place cuff pieces right sides together
2. Sew along the two short ends and one long edge
3. Leave one long edge open (this attaches to the sleeve)
Step 2: Trim and Turn
Trim seam allowances
Clip corners diagonally
Turn cuff right side out
Press sharply
Pro Tip: Use a point turner or chopstick for crisp corners.
7. Attaching the Cuff to the Sleeve
This is the most important step—take your time.
Step 1: Align Cuff and Sleeve
Turn sleeve inside out
Keep cuff right side out
Slide cuff inside sleeve
Align:
Raw edge of cuff with raw edge of sleeve
Underarm seam with cuff seam
Placket edges with cuff edges
Pin generously.
Step 2: Sew the Cuff to the Sleeve
Sew around the sleeve opening using the seam allowance
Go slowly over pleats or gathers
Backstitch at beginning and end
Step 3: Press Seam Upward
Press seam allowance toward the cuff.
8. Finishing the Inside of the Cuff
Step 1: Fold Inner Cuff Edge Under
Fold the inner cuff’s raw edge under by ½ inch and press.
Step 2: Stitch in the Ditch (or Hand Sew)
Options:
Stitch in the ditch from the right side
Topstitch along cuff edge
Hand stitch for a couture finish
Make sure the inner cuff catches evenly all around.
9. Buttons and Buttonholes
Button Placement
Buttons are typically placed:
½–¾ inch from cuff edge
Evenly spaced vertically
Buttonholes
Sew buttonholes before attaching buttons
Always test on scrap first
10. Pressing for a Professional Finish
Pressing is not optional—it’s what makes cuffs look professional.
Press seams flat
Press cuff fold sharply
Use steam carefully
Let fabric cool before moving
11. Common Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
Twisted cuffs → Always match seams before sewing
Bulky gathers → Distribute fullness evenly
Uneven topstitching → Mark stitch lines first
Limp cuffs → Use proper interfacing weight
12. Final Thoughts
Cuffs are a small detail with a big impact. Once you master them, you’ll notice:
Better sleeve fit
More professional-looking garments
Increased confidence in shirt construction
Like any sewing skill, cuffs get easier with practice. Start with simple fabrics, press often, and don’t rush the attachment step.
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