Knitted Fabric

Knitted fabric is a type of cloth made by looping yarn together in a connected chain. Unlike woven fabric — where threads cross over and under each other at right angles — knitted fabric is made from one continuous yarn that forms a series of interlocking loops. Those loops are what give knitted fabric its stretch and softness.

Because of this looped structure, knitted fabrics feel softer and more flexible than woven ones. That makes them great for clothing that needs to move with your body.

A Brief History of Knitting

• Ancient Origins: Some of the earliest known examples of knitting were found in Egypt and date back to the 5th century. These early pieces were mostly socks and simple everyday items.
• European Adoption: By the 14th century, knitting had spread across Europe. Skilled knitters were in high demand, and knitting guilds — organized groups of professional craftspeople — were formed in Spain, France, and the British Isles.
• Industrial Revolution: In the 19th century, knitting machines were invented, especially the circular knitting machine. This made it possible to produce knitted fabric much faster and made it affordable for more people.
• Modern Day: Today, knitting combines traditional handcraft with advanced technology. High-speed industrial machines and even 3D knitting — which creates seamless garments with no wasted fabric — continue to push the field forward.

How Is Knitted Fabric Made?

There are two main ways to knit fabric. Each method produces a different type of cloth.

Weft Knitting

In weft knitting, the yarn runs horizontally across the fabric. The loops are formed row by row, and the fabric stretches a lot from side to side. This is the most common type of knitting and can be done by hand or machine. Common weft-knit fabrics include:

• Jersey Knit: The most basic knit fabric. Smooth on the front, slightly textured on the back. Soft and stretchy — used for T-shirts and lightweight dresses.
• Rib Knit: Has raised vertical lines called "ribs." Very stretchy from side to side. Often used for cuffs, collars, and fitted clothing.
• Interlock Knit: Made from two layers of jersey knit locked together. Thicker, smoother on both sides, and more stable. Used for polo shirts and baby clothes.
• Purl Knit: Has a bumpy texture on both sides and is reversible. Soft and stretchy — often used for scarves and sweaters.

Warp Knitting

In warp knitting, the yarns run vertically. Each loop is made from a separate yarn, and many yarns are used at the same time. This method is faster and more stable than weft knitting, but the fabric doesn't stretch as much. Warp knitting is always done by machine. Common warp-knit fabrics include:

• Tricot: A smooth, lightweight fabric used in lingerie, linings, and activewear. It resists runs and snags.
• Raschel: An open, lace-like fabric used for netting, lace, and mesh. It can be made in very decorative patterns.

Types of Knitted Fabrics and Their Characteristics

Jersey Knit

The most common knit fabric. Smooth on the front, slightly textured on the back. It stretches well and feels comfortable, but the edges tend to curl when cut, and it can pill (form small fuzzy balls) if made from low-quality fibers.

Rib Knit

Made with alternating knit and purl stitches in vertical columns. Extremely stretchy from side to side and snaps back to its original shape well. Perfect for stretchy cuffs, neckbands, and fitted garments.

Interlock Knit

Made by joining two layers of jersey together. Thicker and more stable than regular jersey, with less stretch but a more luxurious feel and better durability.

Purl Knit

Soft and reversible, with a bumpy texture on both sides. Has good stretch and a cozy, rustic look — great for sweaters and cardigans.

Tricot Knit

A finely knit, smooth fabric that lies flat and doesn't curl at the edges. Lightweight and breathable, often used in athletic wear, lingerie, and linings.

Raschel Knit

Has a netted or lacy look and is often decorative. Used for mesh garments, lace, trims, and sometimes heavy-duty uses like upholstery backing.

Knit Fabric by Weight

The weight of a knit fabric affects how it drapes, how warm it is, how easy it is to sew, and what it's best used for. Weight is measured in grams per square meter (GSM) — the higher the number, the heavier the fabric.

Lightweight Knits (under 150 GSM)

These fabrics are thin, flowy, and almost see-through. They drape beautifully but are the trickiest to cut and sew because they shift around easily.

• Examples: Single jersey (80–120 GSM), mesh, tricot, silk jersey
• Properties: Very drapey, semi-transparent, stretches easily in multiple directions, edges curl a lot when cut
• Best for: Draped tops and blouses, lightweight dresses, linings, lingerie, activewear underlayers
• Sewing notes: Use a very fine ballpoint needle (65/9 or 70/10). Reduce the pressure of the presser foot. Place tissue paper under the fabric when cutting to keep it from shifting. Sew slowly.

Medium-Weight Knits (150–300 GSM)

The most versatile and beginner-friendly category. These fabrics have enough body to hold their shape while still being stretchy and comfortable.

• Examples: Standard cotton jersey (150–200 GSM), interlock (180–250 GSM), ponte (200–280 GSM), French terry (200–280 GSM), swimwear fabric (180–220 GSM)
• Properties: Good body and drape, moderate to good stretch, stable enough to cut and sew without too much shifting
• Best for: T-shirts, casual dresses, skirts, leggings, activewear, swimwear, children's clothing
• Sewing notes: Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (75/11 or 80/12). A walking foot helps feed the fabric evenly through the machine.

Heavyweight Knits (300+ GSM)

These fabrics are thick, warm, and very stable. They're the easiest to cut and sew accurately, but they require heavier needles and sometimes a heavy-duty sewing machine.

• Examples: Sweatshirt fleece (280–400 GSM), double-knit (300–400 GSM), heavy ponte (300–350 GSM), wool jersey (300–400 GSM), sherpa (400–600 GSM)
• Properties: Substantial body, excellent warmth, minimal stretch (especially double-knit and heavy ponte), very stable — behaves almost like a woven fabric
• Best for: Sweatshirts, hoodies, joggers, outerwear, structured knit coats, heavy sweaters
• Sewing notes: Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (90/14 or 100/16). Increase stitch length slightly (2.5–3.0mm). A walking foot is essential. Seam allowances may need to be trimmed down to reduce bulk.

Quick Reference: Knit Weight by Project

Knit Fabric Stretch Percentages and How to Measure Them

One of the most important things to understand about knit fabric is how much it stretches. This is called the stretch percentage, and it tells you how far a fabric can stretch compared to its original length.

Understanding Stretch Direction

• 2-way stretch: The fabric stretches a lot in one direction only — usually side to side. Most weft-knit fabrics work this way.
• 4-way stretch: The fabric stretches a lot in both directions — side to side and top to bottom. Fabrics that contain spandex usually have 4-way stretch. This is essential for swimwear and activewear.
• Warp knits (tricot, raschel): These stretch more from top to bottom than side to side — the opposite of most weft-knit fabrics.

How to Measure Stretch Percentage

Sewing patterns for knit garments tell you how much stretch the fabric needs to have. Here's how to test your fabric:

1. Cut a strip of fabric 4 inches wide in the crosswise direction (from side to side).
2. Fold the strip in half so you have a 2-inch section to measure.
3. Hold one end firmly at the 0 mark on a ruler.
4. Stretch the fabric as far as it will comfortably go and note the measurement.
5. Calculate: (stretched length – original length) ÷ original length × 100 = stretch percentage.

Example: If your 2-inch sample stretches to 3 inches: (3 – 2) ÷ 2 × 100 = 50% stretch.

Using a Stretch Gauge

Many sewing patterns include a stretch gauge — a printed ruler on the pattern envelope that shows exactly how far your fabric needs to stretch. Here's how to use it:

1. Cut a crosswise strip of your fabric at least 4 inches wide.
2. Hold one end at the left edge of the stretch gauge.
3. Stretch the fabric toward the right edge without forcing it.
4. If it reaches the right edge comfortably, your fabric has enough stretch. If it doesn't reach, the fabric isn't stretchy enough and the finished garment will be too tight.

Stretch Percentage Categories

Why Stretch Percentage Matters

Knit patterns are designed with negative ease — meaning the pattern pieces are actually smaller than your body measurements. The fabric's stretch is what makes the garment fit. If your fabric doesn't stretch enough, the garment will be too tight to put on. If it stretches too much, the garment will be baggy and loose. Always test your fabric's stretch before cutting.

Knitted vs. Woven Fabrics: Key Differences

Stretch and Flexibility

Knitted fabrics stretch naturally because of their looped structure, especially from side to side. Woven fabrics generally don't stretch unless they contain elastic fibers like spandex.

Breathability

Knits are often more breathable and better at wicking away moisture than wovens. That's why they're a top choice for activewear and casual clothing.

Drape and Comfort

Knit fabrics drape well and move with the body, offering a soft, comfortable fit. Woven fabrics hold their shape better and are ideal for structured garments like blazers and trousers.

Edge Finishing

Knits don't fray when cut, but the edges may curl. Woven fabrics fray easily and need to be hemmed or serged (finished with a special machine stitch) to prevent unraveling.

Fibers Used in Knitted Fabrics

Natural Fibers

• Cotton: Soft, breathable, and great for casual wear. Can shrink and wrinkle.
• Wool: Warm and moisture-wicking. Used in sweaters, scarves, and cold-weather clothing.
• Silk: Rare in knit form, but luxurious and soft with a beautiful drape.

Synthetic Fibers

• Polyester: Durable, colorfast, and quick-drying. Common in sportswear and outerwear.
• Nylon: Strong and smooth. Used in lingerie and performance fabrics.
• Spandex (also called Lycra or Elastane): Provides exceptional stretch and snaps back to its original shape. Usually blended in small amounts with other fibers.

Blends

Fiber blending is very common in knit fabrics. Blending combines the best qualities of different fibers — like the softness of cotton with the stretch of spandex, or the durability of polyester with the breathability of cotton.

Reading Knit Fabric Patterns and Labels

Sewing patterns for knit garments use specific language that's different from woven fabric patterns. Understanding what these terms mean is essential for successful knit sewing.

What "Suitable for Knits Only" Means

When a pattern says "suitable for knits only," it means the pattern pieces are smaller than your body measurements. The garment relies entirely on the fabric's stretch to fit your body and go on and off. If you use a woven fabric (which doesn't stretch) with a "knits only" pattern, the finished garment will be too small to wear.

Decoding Pattern Envelope Language

• "For knit fabrics with at least 50% stretch": The fabric must stretch at least 50% from side to side. Test with the stretch gauge before cutting.
• "For stable knits" or "for knits with little stretch": The pattern is designed for ponte, interlock, or double-knit — fabrics that behave more like wovens. Using a very stretchy fabric will result in a baggy, shapeless garment.
• "For two-way stretch fabrics": The fabric needs significant stretch from side to side only. Most jersey and interlock fabrics qualify.
• "For four-way stretch fabrics": The fabric must stretch significantly in both directions. Required for swimwear, activewear, and compression garments.
• "Not suitable for obvious diagonals": This instruction is more common on woven patterns, but some knit fabrics have directional prints or textures that require careful layout.

Understanding Ease in Knit Patterns

Ease is the difference between your body measurement and the finished garment measurement.

• Negative ease: The garment is smaller than your body. Common in fitted knit garments like T-shirts, leggings, and swimwear. The fabric stretches to fit.
• Zero ease: The garment measurement equals your body measurement. The fabric's stretch provides comfort and movement without the garment being deliberately tight.
• Positive ease: The garment is larger than your body. Used in relaxed-fit knit garments like oversized sweatshirts and draped tops.

How to Substitute Knit Fabrics

When the specific fabric a pattern recommends isn't available, you can substitute a different knit — but you need to match three key things:

1. Stretch percentage: The substitute must meet the pattern's minimum stretch requirement. Test with the stretch gauge.
2. Weight: The substitute should be similar in weight to the recommended fabric. A pattern designed for lightweight jersey won't work well with heavy ponte, and vice versa.
3. Recovery: The substitute should snap back to its original shape after stretching. A fabric with poor recovery will bag out at the knees, elbows, and seat with wear.

If you're not sure whether a substitute will work, make a test garment from inexpensive fabric before cutting into your good fabric.

Common Applications of Knitted Fabric

• Fashion & Apparel: T-shirts, dresses, leggings, sweaters, underwear, socks, and activewear
• Home Textiles: Cushion covers, throws, blankets, and bed linens
• Medical Use: Compression garments, elastic bandages, orthopedic supports
• Industrial Use: Automotive upholstery, filtration fabrics, geotextiles, and reinforcement layers

Sewing with Knit Fabrics: A Complete Guide

Knit fabrics are rewarding to sew, but they require different tools and techniques than woven fabrics. Master these basics and knit sewing becomes fast, satisfying, and very versatile.

Needle Selection

The most important tool adjustment for sewing knits is using the right needle. A standard sharp or universal needle can pierce and break the knitted loops, causing skipped stitches, runs, and holes.

• Ballpoint needle: Has a rounded tip that slides between the loops instead of piercing them. The standard choice for most knit fabrics. Available in sizes 70/10 through 100/16.
• Stretch needle: Has a specially designed groove above the eye that prevents skipped stitches on very elastic fabrics. Best for fabrics with a lot of spandex. Available in sizes 75/11 and 90/14.
• Twin needle: Two needles on one shank that create two parallel rows of stitching on top and a zigzag on the underside — great for professional-looking hems with built-in stretch.
• Change your needle often: A dull needle is the most common cause of skipped stitches. Change it at the start of every project or every 6–8 hours of sewing.

Stitch Selection

Knit seams must stretch with the fabric — a standard straight stitch will pop when stretched. Use stitches with built-in stretch:

• Zigzag stitch: The most accessible stretch stitch for home sewers. A narrow zigzag (width 1.5–2.0, length 2.0–2.5) works well for most knit seams.
• Lightning bolt stitch: Sews forward, backward, and forward again for each stitch. Creates a very strong, stretchy seam — great for activewear and swimwear.
• Serger (overlock) stitch: Trims the seam allowance, finishes the edge, and sews a stretchy stitch all in one pass. The professional standard for knit construction.
• Coverstitch: Creates parallel rows on top and a looped stitch underneath — identical to store-bought T-shirt hems. Requires a coverstitch machine.
• Straight stitch for stable knits: Ponte, interlock, and double-knit can be sewn with a standard straight stitch (2.5–3.0mm) since they have minimal stretch.

Cutting Knit Fabric

• Use sharp tools: Sharp scissors or a rotary cutter with a fresh blade. Dull blades drag and distort knit fabric.
• Stabilize before cutting: Use pattern weights instead of pins. For slippery knits, place tissue paper under the fabric.
• Cut single layer when possible: Double layers shift relative to each other and cause inaccurate cuts.
• Don't pull or stretch while cutting: Let the fabric lie flat and relaxed. Stretched fabric springs back after cutting, making pieces smaller than intended.
• Mark with chalk or clips: Fabric markers can bleed through knit fabric. Use tailor's chalk or small clips instead.

Handling Curling Edges

Single jersey and other weft-knit fabrics curl at the cut edges. This is normal and can be managed:

• Work quickly: The longer cut edges sit unfinished, the more they curl.
• Use clips instead of pins: Wonder clips hold curled edges flat without distorting the fabric.
• Spray with water: Lightly misting the edges relaxes the curl temporarily.
• Stabilize with stay tape: Apply a strip of stay tape or clear elastic along necklines and shoulder seams to prevent stretching.
• Serge immediately: Running cut edges through a serger right after cutting reduces curling significantly.

Seam Finishes

• Serged seam: The most professional finish — sews, trims, and finishes in one pass.
• Zigzag seam: Sew with a narrow zigzag, then press and topstitch flat. Good if you don't have a serger.
• Flat-lock seam: A serger technique that creates a completely flat seam — used in activewear and swimwear.
• Bound seam: Seam allowances enclosed in knit binding. A clean, professional interior finish for high-end activewear.

Hemming Knit Fabrics

• Twin needle hem: Fold the hem to the wrong side, press, and sew from the right side with a twin needle. Creates two parallel rows on top and a zigzag underneath — stretchy and professional.
• Coverstitch hem: The professional standard — identical to store-bought T-shirt hems.
• Zigzag hem: Simple and effective. Fold the hem and sew with a narrow zigzag from the right side.
• Lettuce hem: Stretch the fabric while sewing a zigzag along the raw edge to create a decorative wavy hem.
• Fold-over elastic (FOE): Fold soft elastic over the raw edge and stitch in place. Used for lingerie, swimwear, and activewear.

Troubleshooting Common Knit Sewing Problems

Even experienced sewists run into problems with knit fabrics. Here's how to identify and fix the most common ones.

Skipped Stitches

The machine fails to form a stitch on every needle penetration.

• Causes: Wrong needle type; needle too fine for the fabric weight; dull or damaged needle; sewing too fast.
• Solutions: Switch to a ballpoint or stretch needle; increase needle size; replace the needle; slow down; hold the fabric taut (but not stretched) as it feeds through.

Wavy or Rippled Seams

The seam ripples or puckers instead of lying flat — caused by the fabric stretching during sewing.

• Causes: Pulling or pushing the fabric; presser foot pressure too high; stitch length too short.
• Solutions: Use a walking foot — the single most effective fix. It feeds the top and bottom layers at the same rate. Reduce presser foot pressure and increase stitch length slightly.

Stretched-Out Necklines

A neckline that loses its shape during construction or after the first wearing.

• Causes: Neckline stretched during sewing; neckband not eased correctly; neckline not stabilized before attaching the band.
• Prevention: Stay-stitch the neckline immediately after cutting. Use stay tape or clear elastic along the seam. Divide both the neckline and band into quarters and pin at those points before sewing.
• Correction: Run a basting stitch around the neckline, pull to gather it back to the correct size, and press with steam to set the shape.

Fabric Runs and Holes

Runs (where a loop breaks and travels down the fabric) and holes from needle damage.

• Causes: Wrong needle type; needle too large; sewing over pins (never do this with knits); hitting a thick area at high speed.
• Solutions: Always use a ballpoint or stretch needle. Remove pins before the needle reaches them — or use clips. Slow down over thick areas.
• Repairing runs: Small runs in jersey can be repaired with a crochet hook by carefully re-looping the run back up the fabric.

Hem Tunneling

The fabric between the two rows of a twin needle hem puffs up into a raised ridge.

• Causes: Twin needle too wide; bobbin tension too tight; not using a walking foot.
• Solutions: Use a narrower twin needle (2.0mm or 2.5mm); reduce bobbin tension slightly; use a walking foot; hold the fabric taut (but not stretched). Woolly nylon thread in the bobbin can also help.

Fabric Shifting During Cutting

Knit fabric shifts and stretches during cutting, producing pieces that are larger or smaller than intended.

• Causes: Cutting double layer; using pins; cutting on a slippery surface; pulling the fabric.
• Solutions: Cut single layer whenever possible. Use pattern weights. Place a cutting mat under the fabric. Use a rotary cutter with a fresh blade. For very slippery fabrics, place tissue paper under the fabric before cutting.

Advantages of Knitted Fabric

• Comfortable and Flexible: Ideal for form-fitting and movement-oriented garments
• Breathable: Allows for airflow and moisture management
• Wrinkle Resistant: Knits naturally resist creasing, making them travel-friendly
• Quick-Drying: Especially when made from synthetic or blended fibers
• Non-Fraying: Unlike woven fabrics, the edges of knit fabric don't unravel

**Drying**

- Air dry flat to maintain shape

- Avoid hanging, which may stretch the fabric

- Tumble dry only if the care label permits — and then on low heat

**Storage**

- Fold garments neatly instead of hanging

- Store in a cool, dry place away from sunlight to prevent fading or fiber damage

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**Sustainability and Innovation**

Knitted fabric is at the forefront of sustainable textile innovation. Several developments are making knit production more environmentally responsible:

- **Recycled Fibers:** Yarns made from recycled plastic bottles, fishing nets, and post-consumer textile waste are increasingly used in knit fabrics — especially in activewear and swimwear.

- **3D Knitting:** Whole-garment knitting machines produce a complete garment in one piece with zero cutting waste. Brands like Uniqlo and Adidas have adopted this technology.

- **Natural and Biodegradable Fibers:** Organic cotton, Tencel (lyocell), and wool are renewable alternatives to synthetic fibers that reduce environmental impact.

- **Waterless Dyeing:** New dyeing technologies reduce or eliminate water use in the coloring process, significantly lowering the environmental footprint of knit fabric production.

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**Final Thoughts**

Knitted fabric is one of the most versatile and widely used textiles in the world. From the ancient hand-knitted socks of Egypt to the seamless 3D-knitted performance garments of today, knit fabric has continuously evolved to meet the needs of comfort, function, and style. Whether you're a sewist choosing the right fabric for a project, a designer sourcing materials, or simply someone who wants to understand what their clothes are made of, knowing the fundamentals of knitted fabric gives you a real advantage. The stretch, the structure, the fiber, the weight — every choice shapes the final garment.